7.15.2004

dam I feel good
I want to take this feeling and hold onto it
once I get a good grasp of it I want to share it with you and then share it with the world

I may not surf but I do know this
when a perfect wave comes ride it
do your best to catch it, hold it, ride it, carve it, enjoy it, savor it, and ride it for as long as you can
sure other waves come, some may be better and other may be lesser
buy enjoy the one you are on now
and worry about the next one later
yes I know, there is no perfect wave, but there may be perfect moments
and you may have many of them
then there will be times where the waves are not as perfect but coming in really nice sets
those too much be appreciated for what they are
but never forget
there will be flat days, maybe flat weeks
there will broken boards and maybe worse
don't let this keep you out of the water, but their are sharks
more than likely they will mind their business and you can mind yours
remember the sharks are out there
stay humble
enjoy the moment
remember the second you get all vain or all arrogant that wave is gonna slam ya
you are in the wash grasping for air and maybe your life
then perfect moment is gone

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